Market day in Nairobi

Maasai Market in Nairobi

This shot was taken just seconds before I was swarmed...

(click to enlarge)

Rachel took us to the Maasai Market later that afternoon.

The contrast between the market in Bissil vs. the market in Nairobi, was startling.

Still vibrant, the bustle and hustle of it all is a bit different.

The hustle starts the moment they see my stark, white skin. It isn't hard since I am the only pale face among the masses.

I barely make it out of the car before I am accosted, harassed and manipulated.

My second to the youngest, competitive, survival of the fittest attitude, kicks in instantly.

Polite at first, I simply say "no thanks".

Once I realize I have an entourage of salesmen and women tugging, yelling, negotiating their way into my pockets, the politeness fades.

Polite completely dissolves when 2 vendors, fighting for my attention, start pushing and yelling, with me stuck in the middle.

I ask them to stop. The man, is trying to persuade me to buy his 7 foot tall Maasai spear, the woman has fabric. They continue to fight over me. The woman shoves the man.

"Unwise", I think to myself, wondering how long it would take the man to use the spear he was waving through the air. In a flash of a moment, I see the spear come down and right through my dress. I look down at my dress and without a beat, grab the spear. Yanking it from the man's hand and my dress, I wave it at him.

"I said, STOP! And if you THINK I am going to buy this spear from you after you STABBED me with it...!"

Shoving it into his chest, I point my finger at him and walk away. He is so stunned, I don't see him again.

Michael, our driver in Nairobi and my fearless escort, "WOW! You are a tough lady."

"I surprise you Michael?"

He laughs and says no.

Getting a glimpse of celebrity, I have a new appreciation for anonymity. I am literally shoulder to shoulder, hip to hip, with approximately 10-15 people at any given moment. More wait to shove their way in. I am being yelled at from across the market,

"S'cuse me, s'cuse me! Miss! Miss! Look what I have for you today!"

"Oh, but that is not what I am looking for."

"Hakuna matata! It means...."

"no worries... yes, I know." I've seen the movie, I think to myself. "You are right, there are no worries, because I am looking for something else!"

"oh, MISS! You are not being nice... just LOOK at what I have."

I have mastered the turn and ignore.

I find a soapstone chess set for my husband.

They want to sell it to me for 2000 shillings, or a little more than $25. I walk away.

Vultures, circling, see and hear this and rush in with the promise that their chess set is better.

"How much?" Is all that I consistently say... that and "NO."

They put it back to me.

"How much do you want to spend? Let us start with that." It is simple for me.

"I have 300 shillings." I only have 1000 total and I have more to buy than a chess set.

Huffing and puffing, bulging eyes and all, they stare at me like I have lost my mind. I shrug and keep walking.

I continue to get pulled and pushed. Leon steps in. Looking back and forth, he raises his arms and parts the Red Sea of Maasai. He is well over 6 feet and his wing span is great. I hustle past him and watch as nobody dares pass him.

The chess vendors continue to pursue me.

There price starts to go down, but I continue to bluff.

"One of the vendors down there has some chess. I think he will go down more than that. Thank you."

"OH, but MISS! His is not as nice as mine. LOOK!"

Again, I keep walking. I have noticed that stopping is dangerous, so I keep a consistent shuffle and try not to make eye contact.

I cannot show them how much I enjoy the hunt. How I really am the pursuer, but I am stealth and slow in my game. Creeping along until I find what I am looking for.

It is closing time, so I am at an advantage. Everyone is desperate to make one more sale before we leave.

I go back to the original chess vendor.

"Look. I have 300 shillings."

Staring at me the vendor says no.

I nod and walk away.

"Miss! 450 shillings?"

I walk with a soapstone chess set, 3 bracelets, a Maasai machete, a Maasai spear and a drum-like guitar. I spent a total of 900 shillings. Converted, that's about 12 dollars.

Michael tells me that they are all talking about the "white" lady.

"What are they saying Michael?"

"They are saying that if every white person was like you, they would be out of business. You got very fair, low prices... very fair."

Maybe next time I will pay what they ask. WHY? To be generous. But, first, I will negotiate down to a fantastic price, then hand them what they originally asked.

For me, it was a game. For them, it is life.